Sunday, May 28, 2006

Food in Ghana – Aan jey jibi –Come let’s eat!

I think this topic deserves its own run through because food, at least in my house, concerns a vast amount of conversation, time, and general attention. My family is very fascinated to know what I eat at home, what other “Canadians” eat, what “Indian food” is, how it is that I have gotten along this many years without ‘abela’ or meat, and what abela other people in other countries eat.

“Food” here means something altogether – it is roughly translated from Gonja, Dagomba, Twi, Nanumba, or any other Ghanaian language as “the starchy portion of what we eat”. This is in contrast with “Soup” which refers to “the stuff, which contains the meat or fish, that we pour on the Food”. All people have Food, most people have some Soup, and if you are not poor, you will have abela in your Soup. Or fish. Fish, is barely considered an ingredient; if there is fish in something, it is mostly not even mentioned. Its like a glorified tomato. The most special fish of all however is canned fish – something called ‘sardines’ which is neither salty nor small like I imagine sardines in Canada to be or some other thing which is shiny, silvery and comes in big white hunks. By now I have had some experience in the matter, as fish is mostly what they make for me because “We can see you don’t like meat.”, and honestly, the regular fish is so much better than the canned.

So, abela. This means goat meat, cow meat, or very rarely chicken (and to my utter, utter, dismay because honestly, if I HAD to eat some meat, I would prefer it to be chicken). If it IS chicken, it is like a glorified eraser; the chicken here is free range in the broadest sense of the term. Often times this ‘range’ includes my room, the edge of my bed, or (in an unfortunate incident that I’d like not to re-live too much, being chased off – with me screaming indiscernibly at it in Tamil – of my piles of clean, difficultly hand-laundered clothing) anywhere else in the house they please. You chew and you chew and you chew, and you finally just give in and swallow.

Beef is similar in the chewing status. You mostly forget where it is acquired from – a wooden stall so covered in flies and bacteria and god-knows-what that in sheer self preservation I have forgotten all microbiology I’ve learned to save myself from starvation.

Goat….. ah, goat meat. Goats are everywhere. They cross the street at their own pace, try to kill you by running in front of your bicycle while you are riding home from town, chew absently at everything (leaves, grass, your clothing), and to be honest are kind of cute in a stupid, incompetent fashion. They are not intelligent animals. The baby ones are furry and if it weren’t for EWB’s rampant warnings about petting ANY ANIMAL (I can hear Dr. Wise’s voice in the distance.. “EVERY dog is a RABID dog!! EVERY DOG!!”) I would probably be a crazy baby-goat petting foreign lady! Anyway, I hate goat meat. I say this not lightly – I really, really really really REALLY REALLY don’t like it. I will be honest, if I hadn’t have gotten violently ill the first night in Salaga after eating goat and peanut soup with fufu, I would probably have reconsidered goat, peanut soup, and fufu. But no – they are interminably linked with that event in my mind. When there is goat in the soup – always, I find out early in the day so I can eat a lot of fish at lunch (never meat at lunch – never), and pick at my food in the evening. Probably by the time I leave I will ‘tolerate’ it but like it – no!!!

So, onto the Food. There are few a main kinds of Food and most are modeled on something us westerners have all experienced – PlayDoh. Yep – it has taken me a long while to come up with an accurate description of the consistency of the stuff we eat here, but PlayDoh is as close as you’ll get. There is firstly, and foremostly (is that a word? Guess not.) Fufu, or Capal as it is known in Gonja. Capal is pounded white yam and maybe (not sure) cassava for extra….gooiness. Like all Food you must rip off a piece, dip it in the soup, and eat it – and by eat I mean SWALLOW IT WITHOUT CHEWING. Complicated stuff people. Chew accidentally and suddenly the whole circle of eaters are guffawing at you and you are looking confused and bewildered. Anyway, after fufu, which you make in a GIANT mortar and pestle and pound the living be-hoobies out of, there is T.Z. The letters actually stand for something but nobody uses the full word, so yeah, T.Z or teazed as it is pronounced, is not pounded but stirred cassava flour and maize flour. Its more like, um, grainy PlayDoh. Its pretty..bland.

Next, onto the ones I like a lot: Banku and Kenke. Both are ‘fermented’ kinds of dough, and they are harder, more like pastry dough than PlayDoh. They make the dough, ferment it, and it tastes sour like sourdough bread – vaguely. Kenke is from the south more, and it comes wrapped in corn husks, and is made of maize and rice flour. Banku is more northern, and it is fermented maize and cassava flour.

Banku with some pepe and fish sauce in the background…

Most Soup or sometimes Stew (I have yet to figure out the difference..) contains some kind of tomato base. Tomato is one half of all vegetables available here. At first I thought “I don’t know about this ‘converting to eating meat’ thing – its kind of sketchy. What if I just eat only the vegetables? Or purchase vegetables in the market for my family to cook?”. Then I learned better. On my first trip to the market I discovered the variety that encompasses rainy season vegetables in Salaga: (as follows, and I’m not exaggerating) tomato, onion. The end. Ginger and garlic are not vegetables. Neither is the dried okra which they powder and add to ‘gluify’ stews and soups. I thought, hm, maybe I will buy a lot of fruit. It IS mango season, but that says nothing – the other fruit available in Salaga are the RARE (very RARE) occurrence of banana, some oranges that are lot like India oranges – you can’t eat them just like that, they must be juiced. They are mostly..fiber-y. And mango.

An interesting agricultural/ethnocultural reason underlies this conundrum. There is only one real growing season in the north – that is now. Farmers plant around the first rains (Early to Mid-May) and harvest through to September. Because (as I have mentioned before) not only is the word Food solely associated with the starchy bits of the diet, so is the cultural idea of Food. Famine occurs when there is no maize, no cassava, no yam, no rice (well there is never no rice, thanks to the goddamn cheap dumping of American rice here – but that is another story). Why? Gonja, and Dagomba and other northern tribes are Sub-Saharan peoples. Their main caloric intake comes in the form of the carbohydrates and starch obtained from grains. Animals are only so many and cattle are not even originally native to the area – so to keep a family, and a people alive, they farm grain. Anyway, when there is rain – the priority is clear, they must farm Food crops. Tomato and other things are subsidiary to the main priority. When a yam plant dies, and it is too late to plant another, to “save the land waste” they stick in a tomato plant.

In the dry season, some more resourceful farmers with access to irrigation farm “dry season gardens” where they grow small amounts of okra, and “other vegetables”. I’m not sure what these vegetables are, because I haven’t seen them. This may not be so much the case in southern Ghana, but in the north, Cassava, Maize, and Yam are kings.

Anyway, because I have been lusting after vegetables in a barely concealable fashion lately, and because my family is AWESOME, today they made me a special meal. They got okra (from where – I’m not sure! It wasn’t dried, it was fresh), made some awesome okra Soup, Banku, which I love, and I didn’t even have to eat any of the goat there was so much okra!! AWESOME!! I will try to make it for you all when I get back J My contribution (I have told them I will make “India Food” for them – a much sought after event on their parts, I’m not sure what they will get seeing as how I’ve never cooked on coals before, let alone cooked in vast quantities with random ingredients – when I get more vegetables from Tamale) was making lime-ade (with fresh limes! I had to ride around town for an hour to find them!) for my family. Here is a picture of us eating together !

Now, I must turn this machine off before it rains (borrey), because the power will get cut, and I’m off to play with my baby brother Boncat (kebignan seybi – baby boy)!


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